Marco Pozzo Takes Wolford Helm Amid Restructuring and Market Shifts

SHANGHAI – February 27, 2026 – By Sharon Kelly

In a decisive move to stabilize and revitalize its iconic skinwear brand, Lanvin Group has appointed Marco Pozzo as the new Chief Executive Officer and Chairman of the Management Board of Wolford AG. The appointment, effective March 1, 2026, elevates Pozzo from his previous role as Deputy CEO, signaling the parent company's confidence in an insider to navigate the brand through a critical period of transformation.

Pozzo, who has been a member of Wolford's management board since July 2025, is tasked with accelerating "key restructuring measures and initiatives aimed at strengthening customer confidence," according to the official announcement. His promotion comes at a time when the Austrian luxury brand is grappling with significant financial headwinds and operational challenges, making his leadership pivotal for its future.

A Mandate for Turnaround

The urgency behind Wolford's leadership change is starkly reflected in its recent financial performance. The fiscal year 2024 was described as one of "significant challenges," with revenues plummeting by 30% to €88.4 million. This steep decline was largely driven by a 44% drop in the crucial wholesale channel, attributed to logistical and operational disruptions. The company's losses deepened to €50.7 million, a substantial increase from the previous year, as it faced severe liquidity constraints and instability.

The difficulties continued into the first half of 2025. While the company made strides in reducing its cost base, sales saw a further decline of 23.4% to €33.0 million. The net loss for the period worsened to €-33.64 million, and cash flow from operations turned sharply negative, underscoring the pressing need for the restructuring Pozzo is now charged with leading. This financial backdrop paints a clear picture of a brand in distress, requiring a steady hand to steer it back towards profitability and stability.

An Insider's Ascent

Lanvin Group's choice of Marco Pozzo is a calculated move toward stability. Unlike his predecessor, Regis Rimbert, who departed in January 2025 after a brief six-month tenure amidst poor results, Pozzo is a known quantity who has been deeply involved in the brand's recent strategic shifts. Since joining as Deputy CEO, he has been instrumental in initiating the very restructuring measures he will now oversee from the top.

This promotion from within is seen by market watchers as a less risky and more strategic decision. It leverages Pozzo's existing knowledge of Wolford's internal processes, value chain disruptions, and the specific initiatives required to right the ship. His prior management experience at renowned companies like Ermenegildo Zegna and Alessi provides a foundation in luxury goods that is essential for a brand like Wolford. By entrusting him with a term that extends to July 2028, Lanvin Group is signaling a commitment to a long-term recovery plan, rather than a quick fix.

Lanvin Group's High-Stakes Gambit

Pozzo's appointment cannot be viewed in isolation. It is a key maneuver in the broader strategic game being played by parent company Lanvin Group. The Shanghai and Milan-based luxury conglomerate, which also manages Lanvin, Sergio Rossi, and St. John Knits, is facing its own set of challenges. With a significant debt burden and declining sales—down 24% over the last twelve months—the group is actively streamlining its portfolio and overhauling its governance.

Wolford, as a key brand within this portfolio, must become a contributor to growth, not a drain on resources. Pozzo's mandate to restore customer confidence and implement strategic priorities is therefore not just about saving Wolford; it is about strengthening Lanvin Group's overall financial health and validating its multi-brand strategy to investors. The success or failure of Wolford's turnaround will be a closely watched metric, reflecting on the parent company's ability to effectively manage and grow its collection of iconic luxury houses.

Navigating a Shifting Luxury Landscape

Beyond internal restructuring, Pozzo's greatest challenge will be repositioning Wolford within a fiercely competitive and rapidly evolving luxury market. The brand, known for its premium quality, innovative materials, and timeless design, must contend with powerful market trends. The global luxury lingerie market is projected to grow significantly, reaching over $23 billion by 2033, driven by consumer demand for comfort, sustainability, and versatile pieces that blur the line between innerwear and outerwear.

Wolford is already leaning into these trends. Ready-to-wear, including its famous bodysuits, now constitutes 46% of its revenue, and the brand has a stated goal for 50% of its products to be recyclable by 2025, utilizing materials like ECONYL® regenerated yarn. The new leadership will need to amplify these efforts, pushing innovation in both product and marketing to capture the attention of a younger, more environmentally-conscious consumer without alienating its traditional, affluent clientele. Success will require a delicate balance between honoring a legacy of craftsmanship and embracing the dynamic, digitally-driven future of luxury fashion.